Live rock IS just that... sea-cured rock embedded with macro and micro fauna and flora. Many people associate the word "live" with movement. Hmmmm--perhaps that's merely programming related to the word rather than the word’s true definition; for nowhere in most dictionaries does the word "live" denote movement in the physical sense. The connotation of movement is inherent though; so whoever coined the term "live rock" inferred what we accept today as fact. Live rock moves the way the earth moves from the perspective of a distant galaxy and, in relation to us, both contexts remain the same. We build captivating micro-ecosystems with these tiny fragments of our planet’s marine environment. Everything on the rock’s skin, just under its surface, layer upon layer, deep to its core builds on it being alive. After your tank has cycled, then the life that thrives above its surface, skimming its turf will present a world apart from your entranced, glass-bound gaze. Hence, it does move to many watchful eyes... and to the observant and attendant hobbyist, time transforms, creates and displays details surpassing all expectations. Now where did that tree fall again?

We recommend specific quantities of live rock for marine systems: 1 pound per gallon for fish-only set-ups and a minimum of 2 pounds per gallon for reef set-ups. These are guidelines we have found to be appropriate after many years of experimentation and success. However, variations in system set-up could alter their exact application: stocking combinations for invertebrates, vertebrates and other forms of life; system types such as plenums, species-specific habitats, refugiums, nanoreefs and others; maintenance goals and regimes; rock types, cultured Caribbean being more dense than most Pacific types; and, your desire to experiment and contribute to the ever-growing puddle of knowledge on the subject. We'll continue for now with our guideline though, particularly if you are just getting started in the hobby. When stocking a new set-up, we recommend you initially purchase at least 50% of the final target live rock amount. One-hundred percent is preferable if cost is less a concern. Just remember, live rock is the most vital and one of the most expensive inclusions in any new marine set-up (next to a quality tank, stand, circulation pump, sump, lighting configuration and protein skimmer). It is also the most overlooked expense, so budget appropriately for it!

As an example, if you determine to establish a 90 gallon reef system, your target live rock amount would be a minimum of 180 pounds (2 pound per gallon minimum for reefs). If financially feasible, purchase all 180 pounds at the start--the best, most stable, least time-consuming choice. If you purchase all the required rock initially, allow the system to run for at least 1.5 to 4 months before proceeding with any further livestock additions (1.5 to 2 months with cultured Caribbean rock and 3 to 4 months with any Pacific rock types). PATIENCE SHOULD BE POINTED OUT HERE. Your reward will be less costly in terms of life, frustration and money. This several month period is commonly referred to as a "cycling" process; more directly with live rock it may be called "curing". The term cycling can be applied to any aquatic ecosystem, freshwater or marine. The term curing more specifically denotes the period of time for a marine system when the live rock settles into a natural balance (more on this in a minute); for our purposes the terms are interchangeable. Back to our example... From a financial perspective, say only 90 pounds was attainable now (remember, budget to purchase a minimum of 50% of your target live rock amount initially--for our 90 gallon reef set-up requiring a minimum of 2 pounds per gallon, this would equate to 90 pounds). After your system has been running for 1.5 to 2 months or longer, you should begin adding additional live rock in scaled increments. This means not more than 10% of the target live rock amount per addition (again using our example, this equates roughly to not more than 180 x 10% or approximately 18 pounds). This incremental addition process will assist in preventing major water chemistry disruption, i.e., ammonia or nitrite spikes, now that your system is through its major curing phase. Monitor water chemistry closely during these additions, waiting at least a week or two between them and adding more rock only when no ammonia or nitrite has been detected for 2 or more days. You'll get there--just be patient.

Good circulation throughout the live rock structure is another vital factor in your system set-up. Use Loc-Line to snake returns en route from your circulation pump behind, under and deep into the body of rock to prevent pockets where no water movement occurs. Excess wastes and detritus can accumulate in such areas and over time become nutrient sinks. Loc-Line is perfect because it can be "Y"ed in many directions to accommodate this need. These many branch-offs are another reason we recommend a return pump sized to turn over the volume of water in your tank at least 6-8 times per hour (in our example that would be roughly 550-750gph at tank level, meaning take head pressure in account when choosing a circulation pump). Most systems should have a minimum of four return points: two at the surface, disrupting its tension, preventing surface film build-up and directing this film to your surface-skimming, overflow mechanism(s); and two at the bottom of your tank, behind your rock structure where you have determined poor circulation occurs. In most of our larger show systems, we turn over the volume of water closer to 10-12 times per hour--with many, many Loc-Line outputs throughout the rock structure (we have 12 Loc-Line outputs throughout the rock structure in our 600 gallon "Fantasy Dive" exhibit!) Loc-Line returns are also easily hidden from view, as opposed to other means of circulation like power heads and other pump-type devices (these devices can also pose other problems inherent in their design like frequent seizing-up or intake of delicate invertebrate extremities). However, some systems may not be able to accommodate sumps where circulation pumps can be located; although we do not recommend maintaining reef systems without sumps, it can be done. When this is the case, proper circulation remains equally vital. Alternatives such as strategically placed power heads can suffice. But enough on circulation for now. If you have further questions, speak with a Fish Store Associate about your goals and concerns in this area. We'll help you find the best solution.

During your cycling process, PLEASE endeavor to add only the hardiest livestock specimens (like fish in the damsel family). Really, until your initial rock set-up (50 to 100 percent of your target live rock amount) has cycled, no other livestock additions are necessary or, in our opinion, recommended. Specimens more sensitive to ammonia, nitrite, stress-induced illness and pH swings should absolutely not be added now. Cycling means gradually getting your captive ecosystem into its natural rhythm--chemically and physiologically. Its when inputs and outputs, resulting from normal biologic activity, balance in terms that are measurable to us. Ammonia and nitrites are key parameters to monitor when making this determination. Bacteria that live throughout the live rock strata accomplish this task with varying levels of efficiency (and that is another topic). In all cases involving new set-ups, water changes of 15-20% should be performed at least two times weekly until cycling is complete (use water tests as your guide). Some hobbyists advocate low to no water changes during this period in order to speed up the cycling process, i.e., build up the denitrifying bacteria faster by keeping ammonia and nitrite (their "food") concentrations higher. WE DO NOT! High levels of ammonia and nitrite can be toxic to more sensitive live rock life-forms and we strive to retain as much of the natural life on the rock as possible. Fewer water changes may cycle your system faster, but more die-off will occur--AND you never know what tiny organism is just clinging on, waiting to burst onto the scene! After cycling is complete, slow, planned additions to the system should be carried out. Add hardier specimens early on--except when it would be important to acclimate a more easily stressed specimen before another similar, hardier specimen (similar in body shape, coloration, speciation) that may be more aggressive toward the "shy guy" if its added after the hardier specimen is already entrenched in the system. These are the kinds of issues you need to think about and plan out. It is critically important that you impart current statistics and ultimate goals regarding any additions to your Fish Store Associate. We can provide informed, knowledgeable responses with this information--no detail is insignificant! And again remember, the best way to achieve our mutually desired goal is PATIENCE. When your system has cycled and is stable, refer to our guidelines on routine water changes to maintain system harmony (see Help on Water Changes). In summary, we always recommend the use of live rock in marine systems, regardless of type, i.e., reef or fish-only. Its natural balance provides life, stability and food to all marine organisms.

We offer only cultured Caribbean live rock at The Fish Store & More. It requires much less curing time and arrives in MUCH, MUCH better condition than any rock harvested from the Pacific. Our live rock vendor collects rock for us as we order it (on demand) no more than four days before we receive it. A pulley/tray mechanism is used to haul the rock from the ocean floor to the boat, where it is placed in natural ocean-water filled vats. The only time the rock is out of the water during the collection process is the one-mile ride from the dock to the holding facility where it is submerged in large, flow-through, natural ocean-water vats. Amazing attention to detail. The only other time it is out of water--and this is the time when any die-off occurs--is the day before we receive it, when our order is packed, always packing any live rock last and late in the afternoon before it is overnight air-freighted to us (roughly 16-18 hours out of water). As a comparison, most Pacific types of live rock are out of water, exposed to drying air (often baking in sun on the beach or left under sweltering sun in boxes on docks, runways and warehouse fronts--heated to the point that it is too hot to touch) for UP TO TWO WEEKS!! Talk about die off! Not much can live through such disgusting irreverence for life. That's why our cultured Caribbean rock is always covered with living flora and fauna and that's why all Pacific rock is basically devoid of any life upon arrival, especially after curing is completed (because the cycling process is SOOOO intense in terms of extremely high ammonia and nitrite spikes). Even if any speck of Pacific rock life did manage to make it to us clinging to life, the horrendous cycling parameters would ensure that it wouldn't survive. Cycling with Pacific-type rocks is a long process (easily up to 4 months to do it right) requiring constant attention, heavy, heavy water changes and siphoning (to remove all the dead, decaying organisms) and extreme patience from an eager new hobbyist. So since we choose to deal with a top-notch collector for our live rock and not the careless, unforgivable Pacific collectors, our customers don't have to wait as long to complete their live rock cycling process AND 60 to 70 percent of the life present on the rock at the bottom of the ocean makes it to the hobbyist's system. A wonderful benefit. AND its cultured under license by the state of Florida, ensuring NO damage is done to precious reef resources. That guarantee cannot be made about any Pacific rocks and even if it were, who's there to monitor them? Based on their record, we would have great difficulty trusting anything they said. Our cultured Caribbean rock is simply the best that Mother Nature can provide.